|Argan Oil||antioxidant, emollient||goodie|
|Jojoba Oil||emollient||0, 0-2||goodie|
|Calendula Extract||soothing, antioxidant||goodie|
When it comes lớn cosmetic oils and hype, argan oil is for sure leading the way. Dubbed as the "liquid gold of Morocco", we have khổng lồ admit we have some trouble determining why this oil enjoys such a special miracle status. Not that it's not good, it is good, even greatbut reading the research about argan & a bunch of other plant oils we just bởi not see the big, chất lượng differentiating factor (though that might be our fault not reading enough, obvs.)
So, argan oil comes from the kernel of the argan fruit that comes from the argan tree that grows only in Morocco. The tree is slow growingand getting the oil is a hard job. The traditional process is that the ripe argan fruits fallfrom the tree, then goats eat them up và poop out the seeds. The seedsare collected and smashed with a stone khổng lồ get the kernels inside. This part is the hard one as the seeds have extremely hard shells. Once the kernels are obtained, the oil is pressed out from them (the kernels contain about 1/2 oil).
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As for skincare, argan oil is loaded with lots of skin goodies (but so are many other plant oils): it contains 80% nourishing and moisturizing unsaturatedfatty acids, mainly oleic (38-50%), linoleic (28-38%) & palmitic (10-18%). It also contains a relatively large amount of antioxidant vitamin E (600-900 mg/kg, about twice as much as olive), small amounts of antioxidant phenols (including caffeic acid, ferulic acid, và epicatechin), as well as some rare sterols with soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Thanks to lớn all the above goodness in argan oil, it can greatly nourish & moisturize the skin & hair. It's also claimed to be able to neutralize collagen-damaging không tính tiền radicals, help reduce scars, & revitalize và improve skin elasticity. You can even read that argan might help acne-prone skin, but being a high oleic oil, we would be careful with that.
All in all, argan oil is a real goodie but we vì not fully understand the special miracle status it enjoys.
Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil).
At first glance, it seems lượt thích your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing & moisturizing lớn the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special & unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but awax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy).
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So what the heck is a wax ester & why is that important anyway? Well, to lớn understand what a wax ester is, you first have to lớn know that oils are chemically triglycerides:one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to lớn it. The fatty acids attached lớn the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are alltriglycerides. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (bebroken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils & our body generates energy from it.
Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters khổng lồ give uspeople environmental protection.
So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. Lượt thích crazy stable. Even if you heat it khổng lồ 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does notbudge. (Many plant oils tend to lớn go off pretty quickly). If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years.
Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), & the two are completely miscible. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks lớn this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin.
Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a quality dual action:on the one hand, it mixes with sebum và forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles thendiffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin lớn make it soft và supple.
On balance, the point is this: in contrast khổng lồ real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface và forma protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that.